Cebu to Malapascua – in search of Threshers – Day 95 – Apr 23

The trek to Malapascua was quite a lengthy one – the first part, the journey to the bus station took long enough as the terminal was on the outskirts of Cebu City and the taxi ride us through some of the more rundown and flood affected areas of town, added to this, it was the height of the morning rush hour so time and our taxi stood still for long periods of the journey … well not time as it decided it was not on our side and carried on as time does – argh!

We eventually made it to the ramshackle bus station and boarded the next bus going to Maya which is at the very end of Cebu where we could then get a boat, of some description to Malapascua. This was not as easy as it sounds as getting to the end of Cebu island took long enough and although it was actually not too bad a journey with quite a bit to look we eventually reached a place along the way called Bogo City and then the road quality took a very serious decline.

So the last part of the ‘road’ (aka dirt track) journey seriously took its toll on our posterior regions such that they felt black and blue when we finally crawled off the bus at Maya. The boat awaiting us turned out to be a banca which is quite a small boat and as we were at the front of it we were to be the shield for the other passengers sat behind us from the water coming in over the top – I am sure this does not happen on P&O Ferries – a great but wet journey.

As we crossed the waters to the Island we were a bit concerned about what we had heard about Malapascua from other travellers as some of the reports said the island was not that nice a place to stay but a couple of drenchings later and we were there and frankly we may be a bit too easy to please but it all seemed quite nice to us! The sand was nice and white and no mopeds were allowed on the beach path so although it was quite a slog with our backpacks it was not too bad at all.


Malapascua – terrible place


A Laughing Buddha – big theme at our guesthouse

There were even one or two nice looking places to eat – what was there not to like we asked ourselves. Even our digs, although our own place did not have a seafront view it was still nice enough so we were happy and decided there and then to get our diving booked for tomorrow as we knew the Thresher dives would be literally at the crack of dawn.

We soon located the dive shop we had found details on the internet – Fun and Sun – and they explained that the main factor in seeing Threshers would be the visibility of the water. The theory was simple enough the sharks were always there but visibility played the part as to whether (or not) they would be seen. The dive was also to be deep so if we were to see them it would need to be quick to as at deeper depths your oxygen goes down quicker so time was not on our side here. For our part it would be quite a testing dive but we had felt that our technique had improved over our last few dives so this would put our new found confidence to the test.

Next up was a ‘must do’ job just to show that life on the road is not all razzamatazz – that of washing the clothes – so we enquired of our hotel and although they did not have the facility to do the laundry for us they would let us use their own washing facilities. Their ‘facilities’ being a couple of big bowls and water provided by their well. We had our own soap powder, so we had all the vital ingredients for washing clothes, this is living on the edge folks. I am not sure which age this is living in but this is definitely living.

We ate out that night but we dare not stay out too long as the morning would soon be upon us so we enjoyed food at our digs and had an early night.


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